Life in rural France. Look hard enough and a delicious vegan meal will never be far away.

Five weeks living in rural France and I was gently transported back to my early teenage years. Life became simple again. Lack of internet connection, due to a fault and not lack of technological sophistication in the largely agricultural Charante region, meant my days became a plodding rythmn of sleeping in until 8am (away from my usual self enforced regime of waking well before 7am) walking through fields of burgeoning corn and keen sunflowers, reading, reading and more reading, and adventuring to beautiful, sleepy, blonde stone hamlets on my borrowed bicycle.  This interspersed with meeting the locals,  many of whom were surprisingly of English extraction.  I have not been so relaxed in years!

Of course being a foodie and not to be dissuaded by the myth that the French hate those who shun eating meat, I did a little research to see if I could track down any vegan eateries within a fifty mile radius.  One emerged.  Only a short drive away.  Driving in this part of France is a dream.  Quiet, open roads.  Rush hour?  Pah! No such thing! I booked a lunch.

Under The Lime Tree is the beautiful creation of Nikki Emmerton.  A British woman who ran to France to live the life of her dreams.  It was whilst she was here building her idyll that she met the love of her life Sean Williams and they now have the perfect partnership, running Under The Lime Tree together and living in their little patch of heaven.

Under a living roof of twisting vines, the table is set for two.

My friend and I were the only diners that day and we were treated like royalty. Nikki, filled our table with gluten free breads, warm dishes of warmly fragrant bakes, colourful salads and sweet fresh tricolour Charentais garden tomatoes. It was a feast for the eyes and we were eager to discover how they tasted.

I pinched myself at my luck.  A soft easy breeze.  Hot sun.  A view over the valley and vegan food so fresh, and lovingly prepared.  

A feast of cabbage, olive and seed slaw, sun warmed tomatoes and sweet mangos,  their flavours heightened by the marriage of torn fresh herbs and good olive oil.  The bake a mix of comforting sweet potato, vegetables and red lentils, topped with toasted almond flakes. Spiced and seasoned by a woman clearly so at home in her kitchen. I did not need to be languishing in the nearby hammock to  get the feel of utter contentment.

An unexpected treat followed. Homemade ginger biscuit base, topped with a deep layer of chocolate fondant, intrestingly both light and rich at the same time.  The generous scoop of creamy, fruity ice-cream took my senses over the edge.  As I ate I was already plotting a return visit to Nikki's retreat.  Alas, her homely bnb rooms and her rustic dormitory barn accomodation were due that night to be filled with visiting Latvians, thus no time for entertaining external dining guests.  She could not even fit me in for one of her relaxing spa days.  Be warned book in advance if you intend to visit!

Under The Lime Tree

Fontfaix le Haut ~ 16260 Cellefrouin ~ Charente ~ France

My five weeks in France were both a scouting exercise and and the good fortune to be foster mother to some beloved pets.  For me there is nothing better for grounding you to a new surroundings than having dogs to walk, keeping you company whilst you explore.

Whilst staying in the beautiful medieval river town of Confolens (where there is a confluence of two rivers..hence the name) where I was caring for a soppy and very deaf labrador and a resilient three legged cat who constantly delighted me by smelling of fresh flowers (he snoozed in the shade under a fragrant bush) I happened across an amazing chateau that every summer brings together creative minds from all over the world to attend innovative summer design and craft workshops.  

'Boisbuchet integrates innovative architecture and design into the splendid setting of a 19th century estate. We invest in a culture that respects the past and builds for the future, research into a sustainable relationship between the natural and the man-made and offer a creative environment for people of all cultures to share'.

The place is breathtakingly beautiful.  It's interiors modernist and clean.  The concept reminiscent of Walter Gropius' Bauhaus.    Located just a few miles north of Confolens I have put it on my wish list to attend some courses here one day (I found myself day dreaming of attending a wedding here one day it is such a stunning venue!).  I  did not have time this trip but you can also go on a 2-3 hour tour around the stunning architects village, where glass, wood, steel and innovative design creates out of the box living spaces.
I cycled to Bois Buchet along quiet, shaded country lanes after I had found details online of the water mill that faces the chateau being opened as a vegetarian cafe.  A bubbly Brazilian girl told me of their new venture of using the estates organic vegetables to supply the necessary ingredients to the cafe.  Inside it was cool and a rest for your eyes from the bright sun.  I sat and sipped china tea whilst watching the river run by with nothing but the sound of the breeze and the rippling water.  Yes, I am living a blessed life!

Those pastries looks so lovely, sadly when I visited there was nothing on the menu suitable for a vegan who is gluten free.  I am hopeful for next time.

Domaine de Boisbuchet

16500 Lessac, France

Close by is the sleepy village of St German de Confolens and it's castle ruins.  It was one of my favourite picturesque villages in the area.

So pretty, I look forward to returning!

The Best BBQ Food Truck In America

This post needs few words.  Here in Austin, sits one of the best food trucks I've ever had the good fortune to stumble across.  It is BBQ. It is Vegan.  All those components on the plate are gluten free.  Is this nirvana?! I will say this now, I have never tasted potato salad so utterly, totally and incredibly good. I would eat it for breakfast, lunch AND dinner. The coleslaw and beans?….  well if I told you what I thought you'd think I was exaggerating. 

BBQ Revolution's food is so sought after that when I arrived to get my fill they'd sold out of their BBQ 'No Bull Brisket' and Smokey Curlz.  I'd had them before and the BBQ flavours were sensational!! But honestly, even without the BBQ 'meats' filling up the eco-friendly compostable plate, I was MORE than happy!

They are located up at North Loop.  In a near all vegan food trailer park.  I'm in love!

Blake.  The owner and genius behind BBQ Revolution.

BBQ Revolution Food Truck

701 53rd St

Austin, TX 78751

Holding A Candle To Vegan Dining In New York

I am in Austin, Texas, right now, attempting to catch up on posts that have been stacking up as I flit from country to country, State to State.  Right now, I am happily ticking off another New York dining experience I wanted to share with you.  I'd heard a lot about Candle Cafe, from friends and fellow bloggers, so I was eager to give it a try.   I went with a friend to celebrate his birthday.  He is an NYC native so he had visited many times.  This was great as we managed to get a table without pre-booking, and also he had overtime eaten his way around the menu so was a competent advisor.  

The menu is entirely vegan, mostly local, seasonal, organic and the cafe is proudly environmentally aware.  All elements usually precursors to a splendid dining experience.  I was well catered for as the menu had a good selection of gluten free dishes to choose from.  

The restaurant is kind of upscale but not grand.  The lighting and seating make for a relaxing, intimate atmosphere.  The staff were super attentive.  The Candle story began in the summer of 1984, when Bart Potenza purchased Sunny’s, a landmark health food store and juice bar located on Manhattan’s Upper East Side. In honour of the previous owners’ nightly ritual of lighting candles to bless their establishment, Bart renamed it the Healthy Candle and made it his own.  Candle Cafe's story is an interesting one. You can read more here.

This is what we ate.

AVOCADO-QUINOA SALAD 
Black beans, jicama, cucumber, radish, pumpkin seeds, field greens, chipotle dressing 

LIVE LASAGNA 
Tomatoes, zucchini, wild mushrooms, cashew cheese, pumpkin seed pesto, balsamic-black pepper reduction 

INDIAN CURRY VEGETABLE CAKE 
Sautéed greens, caramelized onions, red pepper-coconut curry sauce, lemon-date chutney, almonds.

MEXICAN CHOCOLATE CAKE 
Chocolate sauce, chipotle candied walnuts, vanilla coconut ice cream (sadly..this was my friend's dessert and I couldn't even reach over with my fork to sample as it was not gluten free).  I could tell by the look on his face just how good it was! I nearly choked on my saliva!

All I tasted was very good and lovingly plated.  The Indian dish and the artichoke appetiser were my personal favourites. My friend spent much time raving about the raw lasagne.

Candle Cafe West is one of three Candle eateries in NYC.  Candle 79 is located on 79th Street in between Lexington & 3rd.   I had visited Candle 79 the week before and I think, to be honest, my expectations were a little high.  The little place had a really nice welcoming atmosphere and was packed with diners at lunch time when I visited.  I arrived after my first walk through Central Park. I had to pinch myself that I was there..in New York (at last!) visiting the most famous and visited urban park in the USA. I headed to the park for a bit of a respite from the craziness of the city.  I had to laugh at the irony.  The sky had a helicopter zig zagging across the park and about 2 million people and 34,000 runners where in and around the park for the New York Marathon (failed to research that little fact of the day!)  It was good fun though, so I couldn't mind!

With such a wonderful variety of dishes on offer, I went with the proffered tempeh entree as suggested by my waitress.  It was nice but not outstanding.  The menu listed their 'famous' split pea soup.  I sampled it and honestly, I was not wowed.  It was because of this experience that I was so pleased to eat at Candle again and come away with fonder memories.  Of course, unless your debut dining experience at a restaurant is majorly whacked it is always good to go back another time and try something different from the menu.  Sometimes you can be pleasantly surprised.

such fun!

a finisher strolling back through the park.

Exploring Gothenburg, Sweden. Cafes Cakes & Culture

Until 2 weeks ago, I thought that Goteborg and Gothenburg were two separate cities in Sweden.  I asked my friend on the way over which would have the most to see, do and vegan eats.  So, I find out they are the same.  Ok, so life is a constant lesson.

I had three days to explore the area, with my Swedish friend.  I'd never been to Sweden and had failed to swot up before I flew, so the itinerary was all down to her.  Once I'd loosened my grip on the reins (I'm so used to travelling alone) I just let her steer.  We only had a day in Goteborg.  The other days we spent chilling out by her lakeside home.  The other, checking out the deserted beaches nearby. I only had two requests.  Find me some quirky cafes, exercise me plenty, and find some vegan food.  The cafes were no trouble. Since the 18th century when workers cafes offered Goteborg residents a place to gather, cafe culture has been a vital part of the city. She also walked my feet off! The vegan food is revealed a little later.

The oldest part of the city is surrounded by a moat which also leads to the harbour.  We booked a Paddan Boat Tour. Not something I'd usually do in my pathetic attempts not to be a 'tourist', but it is a great way to get a leisurely upload of information whilst chilling out.  The boats are flat-bottomed and low in the water, to glide under the 20 bridges.  It was so funny when we had to slide off our seats and onto the floor to make sure we weren't decapitated on the Osthyveln (cheese slicer), the ridiculously low bridge on the canal. It made me wonder at their planning! With that and the old, tall ship that was trapped in the harbour forever when they forgot about it whilst building the bridges!  I bet they don't make good chess players!  At 15 Swedish Krona, the boat tour isn't cheap.  And yes, it is touristy but sometimes the tourist traps can offer a gem.

all duck for the 'cheese slicer'

As with most cities, Goteborg has neighbourhoods or districts, butting up against each other with atmospheres all of their own.  My most favoured was Haga. It was once a working class suburb and bohemian hive of artists, but, as will ALL neglected areas that attract interesting types, it was eventually gentrified in the 1980's.  I loved the wooden buildings, the like of which I'd not seen anywhere else.  Minus 15 degree winters have rendered cafes cozy places for friends to meet in the warm. It was hard to choose which one to visit first!  But, as it was lunchtime when we finished the boat tour, my first Swedish meal was to be at Raw Food Baren. I mistakenly thought the name meant an establishment with ideas of nobility. Baren, actually just means bar.  It is the only raw food restaurant in Goteborg.

There were five lunch options on the menu.  The server, a really helpful girl who turns out was originally from California, helped us choose.  I opted for the raw carrot burgers.  My friend had the raw pizza.

The place is quite small, with a cozy side 'nook'.  We took a seat and waited for our meal. The food was nicely presented. As I watched plates heaped high with fresh ingredients delivered all around me, I felt a little disappointed at the rather miserly portion of carrot burger!  The raw pizza was really very good.  The base had a great 'bread' texture and it was so flavoursome.  I'd highly recommend this place. 

Kanelbullar - HUGE cinnamon buns, .  Sadly not vegan! 

One of the many cozy cafes in Haga district.

I loved this place.  A vinyl record store with a cafe.  So hip! Cafe Santa Domingo  I discovered after on Happy Cow they serve some vegan snacks, too.

We stopped at Two Little Birds for vegan treats.  The cafe is owned by a group of artists who have created a welcoming space for friends to gather and enjoy an ever changing display of art.  The interior is mis-matched retro, with comfy chairs and 70's wallpaper.  We loved it.  As we loved the cakes too.  My thin, chocolate covered gluten free vegan 'Snickers' bar was gorgeous.  All of the owners bake, and one of them has been steadily steering them over to the vegan side of life.  They don't tout it as such, not wanting to alienate anyone, rather say it they are just great bakes for most tastes.  

Two Little Birds, is warm and open.  Originally started by two girls with a love of Bob Marley…3 little birds..or so the legend goes.

With not much time to scout for vegan happenings, I did my best for you.  Food in Gothemburg/Goteborg is so expensive.  I think being vegan and healthy here would challenge most.  'Life' have a chain of stores, this one is called Grona Boden is a food market with many raw food, vegan, health products.  It is where you'll find the best vegan cheese and a range of vegan sausages I didn't get to try.  I found Fram to be more affordable, with bulk bin's, or bags in their case.  The staff were helpful, English speaking as with ALL the interactions I had.

In the evening we met up with another friend and went to a vegetarian restaurant Hagabion, set in a gorgeous old brick building.  It's where the cultured meet to chat, go to events and watch cinema.  It felt so welcoming. A gold circular bar was centre stage. The sort of place you could rock up by yourself and it wouldn't be amiss. Great atmosphere with vintage furniture and retro movie posters.
We had the only vegan dish that we could see was gluten free. Though the menu was extensive.
We were not disappointed. It was delicious.  Faultless.  I wished I could have bagged up a few portions to take back to the UK!

Red Quinoa, thyme roasted tempeh, mushrooms and shoots on bitter red cabbage.  Sounds a bit simple. I don't know what they did with it but the flavours were incredible.  Filling too.  No room for pud!

Unfortunately, the seaside sauna at Varberg was closed on the day we visited.  The green privacy boards you can see under the pier are where the guests dip from steamy sauna to icy sea, for maximum health benefits.  This is where I will head first when I next go to visit.

Finally, I thought I'd share with you my friends jetty on the lake.  The mist is rising as the sun was hitting the still, frosty air.  Here we began our days with a (very) refreshing skinny dip!

I hope to go back and explore more of Sweden next year.  A friendly chat in a shop informed me that Northern Sweden has vegan cafes in even the small towns.  If the quality of the food in Goteborg is anything to go by, this alone would be worth the trip! 

A handy tip* If you go to the tourist information office in the city they have a Vegoguide till Goteborg.  A leaflet containing most of the vegan/vegetarian restaurants, cafes and bars. It is provided by Animal Rights Sweden. Their website has an easy translation button.

Have you been to Sweden? Did you find any great vegan eats you want to tell us about?  We'd love to know!