Five weeks living in rural France and I was gently transported back to my early teenage years. Life became simple again. Lack of internet connection, due to a fault and not lack of technological sophistication in the largely agricultural Charante region, meant my days became a plodding rythmn of sleeping in until 8am (away from my usual self enforced regime of waking well before 7am) walking through fields of burgeoning corn and keen sunflowers, reading, reading and more reading, and adventuring to beautiful, sleepy, blonde stone hamlets on my borrowed bicycle. This interspersed with meeting the locals, many of whom were surprisingly of English extraction. I have not been so relaxed in years!
Of course being a foodie and not to be dissuaded by the myth that the French hate those who shun eating meat, I did a little research to see if I could track down any vegan eateries within a fifty mile radius. One emerged. Only a short drive away. Driving in this part of France is a dream. Quiet, open roads. Rush hour? Pah! No such thing! I booked a lunch.
Under The Lime Tree is the beautiful creation of Nikki Emmerton. A British woman who ran to France to live the life of her dreams. It was whilst she was here building her idyll that she met the love of her life Sean Williams and they now have the perfect partnership, running Under The Lime Tree together and living in their little patch of heaven.
Under a living roof of twisting vines, the table is set for two.
My friend and I were the only diners that day and we were treated like royalty. Nikki, filled our table with gluten free breads, warm dishes of warmly fragrant bakes, colourful salads and sweet fresh tricolour Charentais garden tomatoes. It was a feast for the eyes and we were eager to discover how they tasted.
I pinched myself at my luck. A soft easy breeze. Hot sun. A view over the valley and vegan food so fresh, and lovingly prepared.
A feast of cabbage, olive and seed slaw, sun warmed tomatoes and sweet mangos, their flavours heightened by the marriage of torn fresh herbs and good olive oil. The bake a mix of comforting sweet potato, vegetables and red lentils, topped with toasted almond flakes. Spiced and seasoned by a woman clearly so at home in her kitchen. I did not need to be languishing in the nearby hammock to get the feel of utter contentment.
An unexpected treat followed. Homemade ginger biscuit base, topped with a deep layer of chocolate fondant, intrestingly both light and rich at the same time. The generous scoop of creamy, fruity ice-cream took my senses over the edge. As I ate I was already plotting a return visit to Nikki's retreat. Alas, her homely bnb rooms and her rustic dormitory barn accomodation were due that night to be filled with visiting Latvians, thus no time for entertaining external dining guests. She could not even fit me in for one of her relaxing spa days. Be warned book in advance if you intend to visit!
Fontfaix le Haut ~ 16260 Cellefrouin ~ Charente ~ France
My five weeks in France were both a scouting exercise and and the good fortune to be foster mother to some beloved pets. For me there is nothing better for grounding you to a new surroundings than having dogs to walk, keeping you company whilst you explore.
Whilst staying in the beautiful medieval river town of Confolens (where there is a confluence of two rivers..hence the name) where I was caring for a soppy and very deaf labrador and a resilient three legged cat who constantly delighted me by smelling of fresh flowers (he snoozed in the shade under a fragrant bush) I happened across an amazing chateau that every summer brings together creative minds from all over the world to attend innovative summer design and craft workshops.
'Boisbuchet integrates innovative architecture and design into the splendid setting of a 19th century estate. We invest in a culture that respects the past and builds for the future, research into a sustainable relationship between the natural and the man-made and offer a creative environment for people of all cultures to share'.
The place is breathtakingly beautiful. It's interiors modernist and clean. The concept reminiscent of Walter Gropius' Bauhaus. Located just a few miles north of Confolens I have put it on my wish list to attend some courses here one day (I found myself day dreaming of attending a wedding here one day it is such a stunning venue!). I did not have time this trip but you can also go on a 2-3 hour tour around the stunning architects village, where glass, wood, steel and innovative design creates out of the box living spaces.
I cycled to Bois Buchet along quiet, shaded country lanes after I had found details online of the water mill that faces the chateau being opened as a vegetarian cafe. A bubbly Brazilian girl told me of their new venture of using the estates organic vegetables to supply the necessary ingredients to the cafe. Inside it was cool and a rest for your eyes from the bright sun. I sat and sipped china tea whilst watching the river run by with nothing but the sound of the breeze and the rippling water. Yes, I am living a blessed life!
Those pastries looks so lovely, sadly when I visited there was nothing on the menu suitable for a vegan who is gluten free. I am hopeful for next time.
Close by is the sleepy village of St German de Confolens and it's castle ruins. It was one of my favourite picturesque villages in the area.
So pretty, I look forward to returning!
2 comments:
Wow, that place and the food looks gorgeous!! Was it hard to find other vegan eats otherwise, mostly a cook at home affair? Regardless, the scenery looks fabulous! Are you house sitting?
@Nicole @ Vegan Nom Noms
The place and food were fantastic. But, yes, the rest was a mainly cook at home affair. Lucky I could get ingredients quite easily at the larger stores.
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